The Fashion According to Germain: Madeleine Vionnet
In part two of my history of fashion series we will be discussing the influence of Madeleine Vionnet. Continue reading for full content!
Madeleine Vionnet was born in Chilleurs-aux-Bois, Loiret, France, in 1876, and had begun working as a seamstress by age twelve. At eighteen she moved to London, where she was employed as a hospital seamstress, eventually returning to Paris in 1900. At this time she joined Callot Seurs, the first fashion house run by women, and later went to on to assist Jacques Doucet before founding her own label in 1912.
Black silk charmeuse, chiffon and lace Callot dress from 1911
Vionnet is most famous for her invention of the ‘bias cut’, a method of draping against the grain of the fabric which causes the material to fall more gracefully or cling softy to the body if tightly fit. She also introduced the faggoting stitch, an openwork embroidery that allows more fluid garment shape. Signature characteristics of Vionnet’s work include the handkerchief dress, cowl neck, and halter top. All of these ideas were worked out in miniature on wooden dolls.
Vionnet creations from the 1930s, Buyers from Macy’s wait outside the House of Vionnet. (Getty Images)
Vionnet was heavily influenced by Greek art and focused on making her gowns move freely around the female body rather than distort or mold the shape. These gowns virtually abolished the use of the corset and were extremely popular with stars such as Marlene Dietrich, Isadora Duncan and Greta Garbo.
The House of Vionnet eventually employed 1,200 seamstresses and was the first to create a prêt-à-porter line from its hautue couture. The house was closed in 1939 at the start of World War II, however Vionnet continued to mentor other designers until her death in 1975.
Since 1988 the Vionnet brand has been owned by the Lummen family and in 2006 the house produced its first clothing line in sixty-seven years, with Sophia Kokosalaki acting as creative director.
More gowns, and the designer herself.
Au revoir until next week!
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